Georgia on My Mind : Finding Mtskheta

I'm not a big fan of travelling in big groups, but I would say there are good sides to this. One of that is being forced to move your lazy ass and make the most of your day, the other is basic economics. After checking in at the hostel, getting some breakfast and walking around Rustaveli, we decided to spend the afternoon at ancient capital Mtskheta , about an hour away from Tbilisi. 

To get there, we took a Subway train to Didube bus station. The metro station was a close 5 minutes picturesque walk from our Hostel. Like all metros, you can buy a Metro card and fill it with minimum 2GEL, the ride to Didube would cost only 0.50 GEL. 

Now, it is no secret that I am a big fan of trains and train stations, old European stations are the best as far as I'm concerned.   We took the long escalator down a  rabbit hole on to the platform for Tbilsi metro.  It has more stations underground that my claustrophobic friend was almost to the verge of tears while I just loved every  minute of it. The train was an old remnant of Russian engineering, but I would say its  80% faster and sturdier than the Dubai metro.

Upon reaching Didube Bus station, we were told to look for the mini-buses or “mashrutkas “ going to Mtskheta. Now this is when things got interesting as the station close to a mini market, had lots of people, but we couldn't seem to find anyone who knew english, except for the taxi drivers who are fighting to take us for a grand price of 100Lari. Do not panic and fall for this.

Check out the Cherries.

A good thing, one of myDubai Couchsurfing friend Ron has been to Georgia before and he gave me his Georgian hosts' number, Beka, in case we needed any help. So I called up Beka using my Geocell number (buylocal sim cards, i paid 3Gel for the card, extra 10Lari for Data, Geocell has the best signal). Beka, on the phone, told me to look for a guy who is NOT a taxi driver and to give him the phone. 

They exchanged a few Georgian words, and a minute later the old man was guiding us to the ticket counter for the Mashrutkas to Mtskheta. We paid an amazing 1Lari each and soon we we're on the road, out of Tbilisi and on to ancient capital of Msketa.  

We reached Mskheta a little around 1pm. The goal was to go to Jvari Monastery. Mtskheta is small enough that it is possible to see the entire town on foot. The one exception to  this rule is Jvari monastery, which is far from the town center and located on top of a mountain.

There were a handful of taxis, and we found one small souvenir shop were a lady knew english. She helped us booked a car - 25 lari per car, going up the hill to Jvari.  Being Pint-sized asians, we manage to squeeze 5 of us in each car, so that ended up to only 4 Lari per person. Travelling with a group of Asians has its perks. 

Yes, they use good ol' Mercedes "chedengs" as Taxis. 

I have warned you about Georgian drivers, flatland or uphill, they don't seem to go below 80. Do not question their driving - Its Georgia! 

Finding Jvari Monastery is a little close to finding the Sound of Music set and you can't help but want to spread your arms and sing "The Hills are alive...." 

My friend Harvey and his funky hair got instant celebrity status. 

Certified Asian Tourists that we are, We took a thousand pictures buta strange thing happened when the kids started asking us to take pictures with them. Little did we realize, we just turned from tourist to becoming tourist attractions ourselves. 

A wedding was going on inside, this was the first of many weddings that we will encounter on the trip. Georgians are 80% Christians (mostly Orthodox), much like the Philippines (mostly Catholics) but perhaps the similarities stops at demographics, because unlike us who are mostly Christians in paper, the Georgians seem to be more in touch with tradition, more conservative and generally more...peaceful.  

I had the general impression that to them, Religion was a way of life and not merely an irrelevant accident.   

On the way down, we walked towards the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, one of most sacred places in Georgia and, along with Jvari Monastery, founded in 1010. 

It was mid afternoon, a wedding was also going on, and for a moment there I just felt like I literally stepped back in time as we reached the façade of an Old tavern where a horse-drawn carriage is parked. 

You're just like a dream...The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral has been there since the 4th Century. 

Stumbling upon medieval times. 

Our late lunch was definitely worth the wait. Grilled pork, potatoes and their amazing homebrewed beer at Old Taverna. Georgian Folk music was playing loud in the background and the happy pretty waitresses were willing to teach us how to dance the Georgian way.  

Pork barbeque, bring your own vinegar!

Dance lessons from Georgian waitress.

I know the days will pass, we will soon go back to pick up our  daily routines, our endless responsibilities, and inevitably our good memories might soon to be replaced by other travels, but for a moment there i wanted to stay in that magic bubble. To live in the sacred  memory of drinking draft beer in a beautiful, medieval place one lovely afternoon. 

Madloba Mtskheta.   

Gaumarjos!

To be continued....(up next the great Road trip to Kazbegi)

Also check out my previous blog about landing in Tbilisi.